The title: "Have They Run Out of Provinces Yet?" The conceit, such as it is: a U.S. gourmand ruminates about Chinese food. The result, in the words of Paula Young Lee writing in Salon: "a racist nursery rhyme."
I can do nothing better than point you to Lee's piece for a fine takedown of Trillin and his casually white-North-American-bourgie-foodie-centric "humor." And to suggest that you also follow some of her links, as I did, to a number of terrific takedowns of Trillin and his ilk, including these two brilliant ones:
- "Have They Run Out of White Poets Yet?" by Franny Choi
- "Have They Run Out of White Tears Yet?" by Jenn Fan
And finally, this from the Asian American Writers' Workshop: "We're in the Room, Calvin Trillin."